Il Capriccio merits splurge
Sadly, the act of fine dining and the average college budget do not coexist well. While many of the University's nearby eating establishments are frequented by both locals and Brandeis students, most Brandeis students will never try two of Waltham's best-known restaurants, La Campania and Il Capriccio. Both locations are ranked highly, not just in Waltham, but among some of the best fine dining restaurants in Boston. Given a special occasion, most students would immediately head for Boston and forgo the relatively familiar streets of Waltham under the assumption that nothing in Waltham could rival the city's offerings.Perhaps, however, the gourmet experience does not require a long, bumpy ride on the Crystal Shuttle. With Valentine's Day looming right around the corner, consider how a short trip to Main Street might be significantly more romantic than freezing at the bus stop.
Il Capriccio (888 Main St.) is located next to Gordon's Wines and Liquors at the heart of Waltham's Main Street. Unrelated to their popular neighbor, chef/owner Rich Barron and co-owner Jeannie Rogers boast an impressively selected wine and spirit list for the perfect accompaniment with any of their flavorful dishes. The menu is at its base French and Northern Italian, but is also inherently New England-influenced and built upon a commitment to using local ingredients.
For my own special occasion, I began the night with a glass of 2008 Cantine Ascheri Gavi di Gavi, known as "Cristina Ascheri" ($7). The crisp, dry white wine had a light golden color and a clean, simple taste. While lovely on its own, the elegant flavor only improved when accompanying our delicious meal. In particular, the aromatic bouquet blended perfectly with our first course, homemade pappardelle pasta with braised rabbit ragu ($14).
The braised rabbit was a special of the night and we ordered a half portion of it to replace our initial appetizer choice (roast lobster-stuffed shrimp, wrapped in prosciutto with a smoky malt scotch sauce, $14). While many may object to the consumption of adorable fuzzy animals, the soft tender meat braised with carrots, tomatoes and green onions and tossed with homemade pasta melted in my mouth. The distinctive chew of truly fresh pasta contrasted with the velvet-textured meat.
For our second course, my dining companion chose the much-lauded Long Island duckling, sweet potato lasagna, balsamic and dried cherries ($28). Many online reviews of Il Capriccio have mentioned appreciation for "the duck," and the mystery reviewers did not exaggerate the flavorful, generous portions of both duck breast and leg. The balsamic-based sauce balanced the hearty flavor of the meat. While certainly creative, the sweet potato lasagna was far from a highlight.
My own dish, seared sea scallops, potato leek tart, cippoline and a sauce of Moscato D'Asti ($29) beautifully showcased Il Capriccio's mastery of wine. The Moscato D'Asti sauce was sweet but never overpowered the perfectly cooked scallops. Again, the main dish and sauce largely outshone the side dish as the potato leek tart was flavorful, but uninspiring. Overall, however, the tart played a role as a textural balance to the soft sea scallops. Flavors blended beautifully in each dish.
The service was as expected from a fine dining establishment, and our waiter provided an excellent wine recommendation.
The food at Il Capriccio truly exemplifies fine dining. The simple ingredients and artfully constructed dishes are beautiful to both the sight and palate. The prices are on par with many of Boston's finest restaurants, but consider the fact that you won't pay for tolls or outrageous city parking fees.
The next time you have a special occasion-a parental visit, a 21st birthday, a parental visit for your 21st birthday-consider staying close to home. The experience is certainly worth that once-in-a-lifetime splurge. Whether it's Valentine's Day, an anniversary or any other excuse, save your pennies and explore the other side of Waltham's dining scene at Il Capriccio.
Please note All comments are eligible for publication in The Justice.