Two-hundred-and-ten years after the opening shots of the Revolutionary War were fired at Lexington and Concord, Sam Adams-the patriot and Boston Tea Party organizer-was responsible for a second, distinctly American revolution. On Patriot's Day, 1985, the Boston Beer Company unveiled Samuel Adams Boston Lager, and the craft beer industry, devoted to style rather than mass appeal, was born. Since Prohibition, only a handful of large-scale brews could be purchased nationwide; American artisan breweries numbered in the 600s by 1995. Lucky for us, Sam Adams's second revolution was felt in Waltham, too. The 10-year-old Watch City Brewing Company, located on Moody Street, combines a top-notch microbrewery with American dining and pleasant dcor-it's what beer-heads call a "brewpub." And while their burgers are nothing special, their brews-from a Hops Explosion India Pale Ale to the unusual Blackdogg Oatmalt Stout-are simply one-of-a-kind.

I sampled four of Watch City's Concoctions: their "Big Steamer" California Common Ale, Totem Pale Ale and Tick Tock Golden Ale, which are served year-round and their Cyclismo Summer Wheat Beer, one of a number of seasonal offerings.

The Tick Tock Ale is Watch City's most popular brew, and it's apparent why. With a hazy golden hue and smooth, refreshing body, it's a beer that enthusiasts of all dispositions will enjoy, if not necessarily favor. Although an ale-that means it's normally brewed with top-fermenting hops-the Tick Tock might remind drinkers of some commercial golden lagers, which use bottom-fermenting yeasts. Certainly, it was the afternoon's most unobjectable offering; its subtle sweetness-augmented by an orange slice-and low alcohol content made sure of that.

The Totem Pale Ale washed down like a more refined, and more interesting, version of the Tick Tock. It was flavorful and simple, and also tasted of orange rind. This beer seemed particularly suited for a meal, as its watery consistency might have been insufficient without the complement of Watch City's Bleu Cheese Burger.

The Big Steamer is Watch City's take on steam beer-a variety created by combining lager yeasts with brewing techniques usually reserved for ales. Steam beers' origins date to the California Gold Rush, when it became necessary to brew without refrigeration. The result, obviously, was wretched. The modern equivalent-known to beer enthusiasts as California Common beer-was created in 1981 by the Anchor Brewing Company, out of San Francisco, and has been in vogue ever since. The Big Steamer is a bit darker than Anchor Steam, with a rich, more chocolatey flavor. It was easily the highlight of the afternoon, and a far cry from the typical excessively light steam beer.

I wrapped up with the Cyclismo, made in the German wheat style but named in honor of the Tour de France. It was largely characterized by overtones of honey and worked well with an orange slice, but suffered from an overcrowding of aromas and tastes. Like most of the afternoon's drinks, it was fairly light with little alcohol. While labeled a "Summer Wheat," it seemed to have somewhat too much body to merit that designation, which is usually reserved for lighter beers.

Best Brew:
The Big Steamer

Watch City Brewery
Moody St.
Waltham