In a fast-paced world full of artificially colored, pasteurized and single-wrapped "cheese" slices, the joys of good cheese are easily forgotten. However, those willing to forgo their local supermarket for a specialty fromagrie (the fancy French word for "cheese shop") will find reward in wonderful array of delectable choices that will take their taste buds to new planes of existence.Picking a good cheese shop is key, and, luckily, there are plenty in the area. A. Russo and Sons in Watertown has an excellent selection, as does the Cheese Shop of Wellesley, and any Whole Foods Market will do. The Concord Cheese Shop offers some great locally produced cheeses, but their imported cheeses are probably not worth the drive when there are better, more accessible options.

For the ultimate cheese-shopping experience, a visit to Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge is due. Their impressive selection is quite possibly the best I've seen in New England.

To create cheese, milk is selected from cows, sheep or goats. Certain bacteria are introduced to give each cheese its unique flavor, color and, to some extent, texture. To set the curd, rennet, the inner-lining of a cow's stomach, is added. Today, many cheeses are made with vegetarian rennets, derived from vegetables extracts. The curd is then removed, formed into the cheese's shape and set to mature in a dry, cool area. For blue cheese, a special blue mold is also added at this point. Each step in this process, from the type of milk selected to the length and location of the maturing, creates radically different flavors and textures of cheese.

After the ripening process, some cheeses go through additional procedures. Some, like feta, are left in a salty brine to pickle, while others, such as Appenzell, are left to soak in wine or alcohol.

Cheeses are generally divided into three categories that describing how long they ripen: soft, semisoft and hard. Hard cheeses have been given more time to dry and age, while soft cheeses are fresher and potentially still a little runny, like some Camembert. Soft cheeses are great for spreading on bread, and semisoft are best served on crackers. Hard cheeses can also be served as table cheeses, but many are excellent for grating over numerous dishes.

Cheeses have traditionally been tied to their regions of origin, and many common cheeses are named as such; cheeses from Europe are often considered the best. This is often true, and some of the hundreds of cheeses from specific localities in France cannot be beat. However, some cheeses from this side of the Atlantic are beginning to rise in popularity and show that they, too, should be taken seriously. Cypress Grove, in California, is doing amazing new things with goat cheeses, while Berkshire Blue, from the hills of Western Massachusetts, is outdoing some of the best Stiltons from England.

Never let the overwhelming number of cheeses out there scare you away from the potential deliciousness that can found. Try a new cheese, and maybe it will take you to new worlds.