The Jewish tradition is a delicious one. A prime example: the kugel. Most Jewish foods, especially those from the Eastern European (Ashkenazi) tradition, were based on the availability of foods in the shtetls, the poor Jewish towns where Jews in Russia and Poland lived for hundreds of years. As a result, the ingredients tend to be very basic, utilizing all parts of vegetables and meats.Kugel, which roughly translates from Yiddish to "ball," is a type of casserole made with noodles or some starch and bound together, usually with eggs. Later in their development, sweet kugels and the incorporation of dairy ingredients became popular. Featured prominently in the cultural tradition, kugel holds a special place on the table. Although frequently eaten as a side dish, it can be prepared as a main course, and especially sweet kugels can saved for dessert.

Today, there are innumerable kugel recipes and variations. Potato kugel always has its place on the Passover table; Jerusalem kugel, made with caramelized sugar and black pepper, is served with meat meals; and multilayered gourmet kugels have begun appearing at upscale restaurants in Brooklyn. But the most divisive question is whether to include fruit in sweet kugels. Many people lean toward dumping in copious amounts of canned pineapple and raisins, but my own family's preference runs toward the fruit-free variety.

My first recipe is my mother's very own. It is a somewhat sugary, dairy kugel, but it has just the right amount of sweetness, making it perfect for brunch or even a main dinner course. Start by boiling the egg noodles according to package directions. While they are cooking, beat the eggs in a small bowl, and mix in the cinnamon, sugar and sour cream. When the noodles are ready, drain and return to the pot, removed from heat. Add the butter, cream cheese and cottage cheese, and mix until the butter and cheese has melted in. It is helpful to cut up the butter and cheese ahead of time so they will melt more quickly. Let the mixture cool a little bit, and then stir in the egg mixture. Pour into a greased 7x11-inch baking dish, and bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for one hour. By this time the noodles will be nice and crispy on the top, and the dish will be ready to serve.

A healthier alternative is a savory, dairy-free kugel that makes a perfect evening meal. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat and add the onions. Cook until the onions begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add another tablespoon of oil, salt and pepper to taste, 1/2 teaspoon of paprika and the mushrooms. Cook for another five minutes or until the mushrooms are soft. Remove from heat, set aside, and boil the noodles according to package directions. Drain, and combine the vegetables with the noodles in a large, greased casserole dish. Stir in the beaten eggs, and some additional salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the remaining tablespoon of oil and dust with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of paprika. Bake for 30 minutes in a preheated 350-degree oven, and serve immediately.


Castleman Family Kugel
- 3/4 lbs wide egg noodles
- 1 stick unsalted butter
- 1 cup sour cream
- 3 oz cream cheese
- 1/2 cup cottage cheese
- 3 large eggs
- 2/3 cup sugar
- 1 tsp cinnamon

Savory Mushroom Kugel
- 1/2 lbs wide egg noodles
- 4 tsp olive oil
- 1 large onion, chopped
- 8 oz mushrooms, sliced
- 1 tsp paprika
- 2 beaten eggs
- salt and pepper to taste