Excelsior in The Heritage on the Garden, located on 272 Boylston Street near the Boston Public Gardens, is an exciting restaurant that is all and more than what one should expect from high-end dining. Although there seems to be little to look forward to from the austere exterior, once one walks through the rotating doors, one finds an invitation to enter an entirely new world of new and unforeseen delights.Upon entering this wonderland, I was greeted promptly and escorted across the grandiose bar to a glass elevator that doubles as a three-story wine tower for 7,000 bottles of wine and champagne.

Excelsior, easily one of Boston's hottest reservations, is renowned as a dining extravaganza. This is highlighted by architect Adam Tihany's exquisitely designed bar and dining room which creates a dynamic environment full of energy, excitement and spontaneity.

With the addition of the one-of-a-kind wine tower, Excelsior is able to showcase a vibrant dining atmosphere formed from a traditional foundation yet bolstered with a contemporary edge. In my opinion, any opulent dining room can be created, but a restaurant whose design heightens the dining experience deserves further admiration.

Upon being ushered to an attractively modern table by a window flanked by two ceiling-to-floor orange-brown curtains, I was plunged into quiet deliberations with my waiter about dining options. Meanwhile, I was quickly served delicious breads similar to roti canai (a form of puffed bread served hot found in South Asian cuisines).

After a quick survey of my surroundings, I was promptly served my selected starter, Foie Gras Steak with Brown Sugar-coated Brioche ($20) with a surprisingly aromatic half-bottle of 2001 Tobias Creek, 'Espririt de Beaucastel', Paso Robles-an American white wine ($45).

Possibly one of the best renditions of Foie Gras I've ever encountered, it was divine! The moist, flavorful Foie Gras complimented by a sweet brioche surpassed its comparable dishes I had eaten. Proportioned appropriately as a starter, it enticed my appetite for the tantalizing courses yet to appear.

No sooner did my fork settle upon the last speck of my starter, my main courses arrived. When I was able to sample the Tuna Au Poivre with Roman Semolina Gnocchi (rare peppercorn-coated tuna with coarsely-ground durum wheat pasta) as well as a Native Grilled Halibut with Quince Aioli/Fritto Misto (succulent halibut with an apple/pear mayonnaise sauce). Both were superbly prepared with considerably large portions, contrary to expectations. Well-marinated, the tuna and halibut arrived perfectly cooked. Concerned with perfection, it is of no surprise that Shire guaranteed each sweet morsel was perfect to the final bite.

After such memorable courses, dessert seemed almost unnecessary-but for those with a viable sweet tooth, one recommends the Mascarpone Mousse Napoleon with Ginger Poached Seckel Pear ($9) that tastes as delicious as it sounds. Although the soft, poached pear was slightly tart, the oversweet mousse napoleon complemented the fruit as their two distinct flavors merge in proper proportions, bringing mind-boggling satisfaction.

All in all, it was a wonderful evening and an excellent venture for Shire. Excelsior is de- -- if one is willing to participate in an occasional splurge. Today, Executive Chef Eric Brennan continues Shire's vision while adding his own sensibilities also.

The entire experience was faultless as there were no lags between courses, and the well-oiled team of handsome wait-staff was not only pleasant but also knowledgeable about wine and entre selections. Together, a large meal with appetizers, main course, and desserts will probably cost between $60 and $75, excluding the tip, so be prepared, but if you're willing to spend the money I guarantee a memorable experience. For while Excelsior may seem opulent, but is also surprisingly quaint.