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The Waltham restaurant New Mother India has a polished ambiance with interesting decorations to promote conversation during a romantic rendezvous.


Local eatery great for dates

By: Kelsey Grab and Jason Henry Simon-Bierenbaum

Posted: 3/9/10

When we entered New Mother India, the first thing we noticed was how empty the place was. At 6 p.m. on a Saturday night, maybe we were early; but still, we felt a bit confused. The soft lighting coupled with the gentle music made for a very calm and open atmosphere that was perfect for a date. The food we were about to eat certainly warranted a full house.

The owner, who introduced himself as Sham, is from India and moved to the U.S. to continue a career as an information technology consultant. As we heard Sham's story about coming to America, we were surprised to hear he had learned how to cook here in the States. The attention to detail and the complexity of the dishes suggest a lifetime of cooking experience, which explains why Sham says it's harder to be a chef than an IT consultant. He told us how a dish can be ruined in 30 seconds, whereas a computer script has a perfect beginning and end. The food we ate certainly displayed his attention to detail.

THE MEAL

Royal Basket: a combination of aloo naan (kind of like naan filled with a huge grated-potato latke); tava chappati (a thin, soft wheat bread); onion paratha (a multi-layered fry bread filled with onions) and poori (a light, puffy bread that looks like a balloon).

Jason: This was a great omen for the rest of the meal. When I eat Indian food, one of the things I look for is the intricate balance of textures, flavors and spices. The breads were all flavorful yet allowed the taste of the chutneys to come through. They were light, yet satisfying; softened by the oils but none felt remotely greasy.

Kelsey: The bread was a delicious array of varied textures and tastes for the palette. What stuck out most was the onion paratha-I'm always nervous when there's onion in bread, but this was exquisite. The onion in the naan was soft but not obtrusive-it added flavor but did not ruin the texture of the bread.

Chicken Pakora: boneless chicken chunks lightly breaded and served in a tangy sauce.

Jason: I don't eat meat, so while Kelsey ate it, I had more bread.

Kelsey: The tamarind sauce was sweet but not overwhelming, and it complemented the delicate breading on the chicken, which was well-cooked but not greasy to touch. The mango chutney was also a nice partner to the dish.

Tava Chicken: a New Mother India special.

Jason: It looked really good, with a beautiful vibrance of colors. It's a shame it had chicken in it.

Kelsey: It was sweet, soft and a bit spicy. The orange sauce tasted a bit like a blush style-it had undertones of tomatoes, but they were light and not overbearing. The flavor was not over the top but deserved the title of "special."

Veggie Coconut Curry: mixed vegetables slow-cooked in coconut curry.

Jason: This is the only dish that disappointed me. It felt like an Indian take on a Thai coconut curry dish with a thicker sauce and garbanzos and pintos replacing tofu or meat. There was nothing "bad" about this; however, as a new dish the owner encouraged us to try, I did not find its caliber near to any of the other amazing dishes.

Kelsey: I was not amazed by this dish, either. Though the lack of tofu did not turn me off, the combination of beans and vegetables did. I think it proved to be unappealing and bland in relation to our other dishes.

Paneer Tikka: a New Mother India specialty consisting of hand-molded balls of paneer (a soft cheese) cooked in a rich, creamy sauce with a mixture of herbs and spices.

Jason: Despite the fact that Indian food has been a favorite of mine since I first ate solid food, this was a wonderful new find. The balls of paneer were so soft, reminiscent in flavor and texture of a thicker ricotta. The way the paneer mixed with the smooth, flavorful sauce made this a highlight of the night.

Kelsey: I had seconds of the paneer. It was a good balance of warmth and spice. The flavor was smooth and not overpowering. The sauce was so good I had it alone with the rice.

Saag Paneer: a very popular Indian dish featuring cubes of homemade paneer in a bed of spinach, ginger, butter and fresh herbs.

Jason: New Mother India had a very distinct saag paneer. The saag, which had been cooking for nearly a full day by the time we had it, was so smooth, and the leaves of spinach and other herbs floated into each other. The chefs showed just how versatile they could be with common ingredients. The paneer in this dish was almost unrecognizable compared to the paneer tikka. It was very firm yet soft, allowing itself to be a canvas for the complexities of the saag.

Kelsey: I admit, the way the dish looked turned me off. The green sauce and strange squares of white cheese were not pretty. I did not enjoy this dish-I felt like it lacked the flavor and spice that the other dishes exhibited.

Baingan Bharta: eggplant baked over an open flame, mashed and seasoned with garlic and spices and then sautéed with onions and peas.

Jason: This was another house specialty that I had never experienced before coming to New Mother India, so I was particularly blown away. Each small bite unleashed new flavors and hues of texture. First I noticed how smooth it was, then the smoked flavor reached out to me. Next, I had a bite with a pea and delighted in the juxtaposition of sensations. This was a truly satisfying dish that tasted rich yet not overpowering. Of all the dishes, this easily stood out.

Kelsey: This dish was hands-down my favorite. I'm hesitant to order eggplant dishes because eggplant can be a difficult vegetable to cook, but New Mother India certainly understands the food's intricacies. Sham told us that the three-day process of making this dish without food processors really creates a special tasting experience. The onions were caramelized into the dish, which complemented the curry, ginger and lemon undertones. I will order this dish from now on.

HOW IT WAS AS A DATE

Jason: When I go out on a date, I want to do it right and make it special. While this was a bit costly for my budget, it was worth the splurge. The charming staff were all very caring made us feel at home. They were glad to tell us all about how the dishes were made or to share humorous, personal anecdotes, but they also gave plenty of time for us to relax and enjoy each other's company. The food, music and art were great conversation starters but also allowed natural conversation to flow freely.

Kelsey: I second Jason's sentiments regarding New Mother India as a date destination. It certainly is not an every-weekend sort of place due to prices, but the food certainly was an indication of the efforts that warrant such expense. This restaurant is a great place to impress a date-if you put some time into learning and understanding the dishes, it is fun and interesting to teach someone else about the culture and food. Even if you do not do prior research, the wait staff here is happy to discuss the menu and the work put into it. For a couple interested in exploring new things or looking for a great dining experience, I certainly recommend New Mother India.

Jason: My only regret? Not saving enough time or appetite for dessert!

Kelsey: When are we going back?
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